Next we remove the speed sensor, you will see that there is a 24mm nut under the plug of the sensor, you can remove just the top section of the speed sensor, this is what you want to do if you plan to use your mk1/2 cluster and one of our speedometer cables. Remove the aluminum trans mount bracket if you haven’t already and the steel support bar that connects it to the case. Here we start with a fresh mk4 TDI transmission, Code 02j, case is an EGR, The 02a installation is very similar except the shift tower, you also don’t have to drill out any case holes. I am going to cover the install of the MK1 02j transmission mounts onto the transmission before you bolt it into the car. With the transmission dry fit we are ready to move onto the clutch and flywheel kit, and installing the trans to the motor. You will be moving most of the material from above the bolt hole but continue smoothly past the timing inspection hole on the trans case. This last picture shows how much we took off of the top edge of the case ( its not alot but that top casting was symmetrical when we started). This picture on the right shows the timing case and trans case are touching where as the pic on the left shows a gap after we have ground the trans case down. You can see here that the case has a bit of an edge on it, and that the trasmission case is not even sitting down to the lip on the case The transmission (020, 02a/j) case will hit the timing case on near the bolt hole at the “front edge” of the block Onto the REQUIRED transmission modification – only takes a couple minutes with a flap disc on a grinder. I have brushed ceramic paint on and it will lay down to the point you cant see the brush strokes. Using a ceramic based paint is a huge advantage in making it lay flat, and it has great oil/gas/heat resistance. With the block cleaned, and taped, I set a couple “dummy” parts to make it less of a hassle to mask, a spare valve cover (or if you know you are going aftermarket), a 3d printed oil filter housing I had for testing, etc. Time to clean the block up and prep for paint, thankfully I had steam cleaned this motor before I brought it in and it was pretty clean, just some spots behind things like the accessory bracket and other hidden pockets of dirt to clean up. Now that the ARP headstuds are install ( you will have to take the cam ladder off to do this) seal the ladder back with an anaerobic sealer and finish the timing chain install. This is the timing kit I use for locking the Cam and crank down, there are several options but you are going to need one. I am going to tear this motor down and do a headgasket (installing headstuds – not required) timing chains, water pump, thermostat housing, oil filter housing (stock will fit the mk1 with some gentle hammering on the core support to clear the cover), oil pan (adding a reinforced plates to the steel pan). I will try to differentiate that when I come across it. here is how I go about installing one into a mk1, some of this will carry to other chassis, some of this is NOT REQUIRED but rather how I like to do things. So you’ve decided to jump on this 5cyl train? Great idea.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |